Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
